This is where Tunisia’s Mediterranean heart meets its African spirit. Mini tartelette cases next to bowlfuls of harissa. Ravioli aux fromage and couscous. Tiny vol-au-vents and a semolina bread that looks like a half-inch thick tart and is the diameter of a large mug with a delicate crimped edge.
I’ve been to traditional markets around the world – there is always a predictable level of colour, plenty, noise, smells, cats and rushing barrowboys within an inch of running you over. But Marche Central, which was originally built in 1891 and renovated in 2007, is pretty spectacular.
with lots of aesthetic touches.
We buy garlic from Hamza Lee (below) who tells us he’s an art photographer and urges us to look him up on Facebook. We do. Click here to see his offerings.
And we visit the best bread stall ever: