Year of the dragon in our global Chinatown

RASHMEE ROSHAN LALL March 10, 2024

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Chinatown in London, England. Image by Lalitphat Phunchuang, Unsplash

Welcome to This Week, Those Books, your rundown on books new and old that resonate with the week’s big news story.

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We’re celebrating YOU, fabulous reader, as we hit a milestone: More than 7,000 subscribers in 99 countries. Grab your chance to win Takeaway by Angela Hui (featured below). To enter the competition, answer just one question: what animal are you in the Chinese horoscope? (Hint: Click here if you’re not sure.) Please comment below and your name will be entered in the competition to win the book. Deadline for entries: February 22. Hurry!

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The Big Story:

Celebrations to mark the new lunar year of the dragon begin February 10 across China and much of the world.

This Week, Those Books:

  • China summed up.
  • A sumptuous Chinese feast.
  • And a diaspora takeaway.

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  • China in Ten WordsBy Yu HuaPublisher: AnchorYear: 2011

A collection of brilliant essays by one of China’s bestselling writers, who tries to decode 21st century China.

Novelist Yu Hua, who will be 64 this year, lived through Mao’s Cultural Revolution and still resides in China. That’s despite this searing non-fiction book, in which Yu uses 10 words to give him “ten pairs of eyes with which to scan the contemporary Chinese scene from different vantage points”. That scan reveals a “morally compromised nation”, one in which words are devalued. ‘People’, for instance, the very first chapter heading. It “has become nothing more than a shell company, utilized by different eras to position different products in the marketplace”. The other nine words are: “Leader”, “Reading”, “Writing”, “Lu Xun”, “Revolution”, “Disparity”, “Grassroots”, “Copycat” and “Bamboozle”. Yu writes “in these pages of personal pain and of China’s pain”, serving as “a bus driver who drives back and forth along the same route, my starting point is also my last stop”. Occasionally, his “busload of stories…pulls over at junctions with politics, history, society, and culture”.

  • Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese FoodBy: Fuchsia DunlopPublisher: W. W. Norton & CompanyYear: 2023

    Fuchsia Dunlop was at the BBC World Service in London the same time as me but left to pursue the sublime delights of Chinese gastronomy. Often described as the first Westerner to train at the Sichuan Higher Institute of Cuisine (since integrated into the Sichuan Tourism University), Dunlop is passionate about the art, craft – and taste – of Chinese cuisine. In this sweeping view of Chinese culinary habits and history, she laments the hypocritical condescension towards China’s food even though it “is an inescapable cultural presence all over the world, from New York to Baghdad, Stockholm to Nairobi, Perth to Lima”. A lovely read.

    Choice quote:

    “Virtually every nation has its own ‘classic’ Chinese food, from my beloved sweet-and-sour pork balls to India’s chicken Manchurian, Sri Lanka’s hot butter cuttlefish and Sweden’s ‘four little dishes’. As a brand, ‘Chinese food’ has global recognition”.

  • Takeaway: Stories From a Childhood Behind the CounterBy: Angela HuiPublisher: TrapezeYear: 2022

This is yet another side of the global Chinese presence – the diaspora, one of the world’s biggest and oldest. Angela Hui tells an honest but heartwarming story about growing up in her family’s Chinese takeaway restaurant in rural Wales. Where ever in the world you are, there is a similar Chinese restaurant near you. As for the people who run it, Hui tells of feeding the local community but never being wholly included in it. A moving account.

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